The history of bonsai (pronounced bone-sigh)
as we know it today dates back several thousand years originating in China. The
word
Bonsai is actually a Japanese word built from two words, 'bon' means tray or dish and 'sai' means plant or tree, so loosely translated bonsai means a tree planted in dish.
Bonsai is the art of creating and keeping trees in a miniature size that represents the way they would appear in nature. The art form
is practiced slightly differently by each person involved in the art, but there are a few basic rules that one should
follow and you will find some of these below. While this page will answer some
of your questions regarding Bonsai, I highly recommend that you join a local
Bonsai club and read as much as possible on the subject. To help you, I have a
club links page that will hopefully lead you to a
club near you. Books are another important way to gain knowledge on the
art and I have a book page that includes several books
that I personally found helpful.
Misconceptions Regarding Bonsai
Bonsai is not a species of tree - Any species of tree that has small leaves or has leaves that can be reduced to an exceptional size can be made into a bonsai.
Bonsai always stay small - This is far from the truth. Bonsai are created from common trees found in nature and if planted in the ground and left to their own devices would grow into the normal size for their species. It is through the care and maintenance of a bonsai that keeps it small.
Root pruning keeps a tree small - In fact, it has the opposite effect.
Root pruning causes growth to
occur and is very important in keeping the tree healthy and vigorous.
Bonsai are indoor trees - This is a can be a misleading statement and people need to keep
this mind
that while some trees can be classified as indoor trees (see
www.fukubonsai.com for useful indoor
Bonsai information), many just tolerate
being indoors over the winter. So if you want a tree to keep indoors remember
to buy a tropical variety and
in the warmer months try to keep it outdoors as much as possible to promote
new growth and good health.
**Special note, check out the beginner workshop area below to see how
easy indoor Bonsai workshops can be.
CHOOSING A TREE
Where are you planning to keep it indoors or outdoors?
This is the most important question to ask yourself. You need to understand
that many Bonsai are outdoor trees (hardy) and while some can tolerate being kept
indoors (tropicals) for a period of time, they will eventually weaken and die. It's very
important that you ask the salesperson your dealing with whether it is an
indoor (tropical) or an outdoor (hardy) species. I get a lot of email from
people new at Bonsai telling me they have a Juniper and it appears it be
sick. Many times I find out that they have been keeping it indoors, which of
course is fatal for an outdoor tree. So if you want an indoor tree be sure
you get a tropical not a Juniper.
Know your tree: visually take stock of its condition and recognize when it's doing poorly. Know its needs - light, water, fertilizer etc. Know if you can really supply the tree's needs. If you don't you may be in for a bad experience.
TELLING IF A TREE IS DEAD
Even with the best care trees sometimes die. The best way to test whether a tree is dead or not is the 'scratch test'. This is performed by simply peeling the
outer two layers of bark off the trunk with your fingernail. This allows you to
see if the cambium layer is still green. If it's green the tree is still alive,
but if it's not it's dead (at least that area isn't). When you perform this test
make sure you test several different areas on the tree. It's possible to have
dead a branch or branches while there is still life in the trunk and other parts
of the tree.
GENERAL CARE
REPOTTING: This is a very important step to promote vigorous growth and failure to do
this can create an environment which could lead to root rot.
SOIL: Course well draining Bonsai soil is best. You can buy premixed bags of
soil or mix your own. If you have a large number of trees mixing your own will
save you some money, but the best reason to mix your own is that it allows you
to adjust the ingredients based on the needs of the tree your working with. For
example, conifers and pines normally do better in a courser mix, whereas deciduous
trees prefer a mix with a higher amount of organic material mixed in.
PRUNING: In most cases major pruning is done in the spring, but it's best to
do some reading about the species your working with to find the best time.
The reasons to prune include: promoting the chosen style, promoting branch ramification
and to keep the tree an expectable size.
LIGHT: Indoors: Avoid keeping trees closer than twelve inches from windows. The sun radiates through glass and that could scorch the leaves and in extreme cases eventually killing the tree. In the winter you should also keep trees a minimum of twelve inches from windows. The cold radiates from the glass and in the evenings could drop the temperature enough to damage tropical trees.
TEMPERATURE: All trees have specific temperature ranges that they
will survive in. It's impossible to list them all here so it's important for
you to read up on your tree's specific needs.
WINTERING: Most trees (especially sub-tropical and hardy varieties)
need to be dormant 2000+ hours to retain they're vigor. I recommend that you
read up on your tree to learn it's specific wintering needs
WATERING: Over watering - root rot is a major cause of premature tree death. Toothpick or chopstick method
(description below) can help you monitor how often to water your tree.
Warning, never let the root ball of your tree dry out completely, it must
likely will
kill your tree.
Toothpick/Chopstick method: Just place a wooden toothpick or chopstick in the
soil about 1 1/2" to 2" from the trunk of the tree. Periodically remove the
toothpick or chopstick from the pot and feel it with your fingers (some touch
it to their face), if it's
dry, water.
FERTILIZER: You should avoid fertilizing during the winter months. This a time when the tree is normally dormant and since the days are shorter at this time
of year growth tends to be
stringy with an increased distance between internodes. It is also important not
to fertilize a sick tree as it will stress the tree even more, delaying it's
recovery. Fertilize often in spring, summer and early fall. Stop fertilizing trees when temperatures begin to drop
into the forties (in zone 5). Follow directions on fertilizer when mixing.
STYLES:
Chokkan - Formal upright: Design is created
from a tree with a straight trunk. Branches are selected in an alternating
pattern, right - back - left or vica-versa with the largest space between
branches toward the bottom of the tree.
Moyogi - Informal upright: Similar to the formal
style upright except that it has a curved trunk and branches on the sides
should be on the outside of the bends.
Kengai - cascade
Han-Kengai - semi-cascade
Shakan - slanting
Hokidachi - broom
Sokan - twin trunk
Sankan - triple trunk
Yose-ue - grove
Ikada - raft
Kabudachi - clump
Netsuranari - raft from root
Fukinagashi - windswept
Bunjingi - literati
Ishitsuki - over rock
POTS:
Pots come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The two things to watch for when
buying pots for Bonsai is that there is at least one hole in the bottom of the
pot to allow for good drainage and that the inside of the pot is not glazed.
TREE DEVELOPMENT METHODS
Seed - you can grow trees from seed like other plants, however most tree
seeds need stratification prior to planting. This is accomplished by keeping
the seeds in a cold environment for a period of time.
Air Layering - Is a method of propagating a new tree from an existing tree.
The major advantage of using this method is that the new tree created from
the layer will have the same characteristics as the original tree. It's also
possible to create a layer that has a caliper of several inches, which gives
you a very nice starting point.
Cuttings - Cutting are often taken in the early spring from a branch
just below a node. They are then normally planted in a course sand and
allowed to develop roots.
Trunk cropping - Using this method the person can start with nursery
stock with a large caliper and then cut the trunk down to an appropriate
high.
Bonsai For Beginners 
